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Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...When you first look at the main shaft, it may appear very daunting. But as long as you have a large workbench where you can lay everything out in order (and you have your Factory Service Manual handy) it's not really tough. This is actually two shafts. The main shaft has the input shaft at one end. You can see it being carefully removed in the photo to the right. The high-speed synchronizer ring may be loose on the end of the input shaft when you separate the shafts, be sure to keep the parts in order. We will come back to this later.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...On the end of the main shaft (where the input shaft had been) you will find a needle bearing. This is unlike the larger bearings you have already replaced because there are no ball bearings in it. This kind of bearing is for close quarters, looking more like a sleeve, it uses long cylindrical bearings that ride on a larger surface. Set this aside, keeping the components in a line to insure the right order of assembly.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...Remove the circlip, and pull the third gear, synchonizer low speed hub and needle bearing off all at once. You can keep them together to make it easier, but remember to replace the needle bearing with a new one from the rebuild kit. Set it face down on the workbench in its place in the order.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...Starting at the other end of the main shaft, carefully remove each bearing, and its set of gears and put them in line on the table. 
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...There are circlips along the way that retain each gear set, so don't force anything until you have checked for one of these suckers.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...Your rebuild kit should include all of the main bearings as well as the needle bearings, so remember to swap in the new components as you go.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...As you (carefully) pull the main shaft assembly apart, you will notice three (3) ball bearings in the mix. Don't lose these. Also, don't try to remove a component if there is a ball holding the component in place. Carefully remove the ball and place it in the assembly order.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...Once the shaft has been disassembled, go back through the parts you have removed and make sure you replace all of the bearings with new components that look identical.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...Then reassemble the shaft in the reverse order that you took it apart. This is where keeping everything in order makes the difference.
Click through for a closer look...For a reminder of the order, take a look at this. The main bearings will need to be pressed back into place, so be careful not to lose track of the ball bearings shown above.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...The needle bearings should slide easily with no obstructions. And don't forget the circlips as you go.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...Remember the input shaft we set aside earlier? You will need to replace the bearing on the end of the input shaft. Use a bearing puller for removal and then press the new bearing into its place. Then slide the input shaft back onto the main shaft over the new needle bearing.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...As you carefully place the main/input shaft back into place, be sure to notice the circlips on the main bearings. These ride in a slot that will keep the bearing race from moving after assembly. Make sure everything rotates smoothly.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...Bolt the upper case back into place and torque to factory specs. Put the idle gear/ reverse gear shaft back into place.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...Bolt the extension case back into place and don't forget the reverse shift rim bolt that we pointed out earlier. Then we concentrate on the shift tower.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...The shifter locating bolt is a commonly replaced item, as it is very prone to wear. There are two different sizes based on the model year of your transmission. You can see an example of each shifter to the right. The shifter on the left of the photo is a newer model, as it has the wider slot to accept a larger locating pin. On the right, you can see an older model that has also been outfitted with a new poly shifter 'sheet'. These replacement shifter sheets are available from many of the aftermarket distributors. Planning ahead, we got this one from North Coast Offroad during the ZookiMelt last year.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...Here you can see the shifter tower after a cleanup and lube. A new locating bolt has been installed and because this is an older model shifter tower, we used the shifter handle with the new shifter sheet described above.
Click through for a closer look...If your shift tower needs to be replaced, maybe the threads for the locating bolt are stripped out - or you have an older model and would like to take advantage of the larger diameter locating bolt of the newer model, you can get a complete tower kit from Hawk Strictly Suzuki.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...Here we finally close up the case by replacing the input shaft housing.
Click through for a closer look...Click through for a closer look...Finally a new clutch release bearing (aka - the throwout bearing) tops off the input shaft. Remember to replace the pilot bearing in your flywheel also, or you may experience a situation where the vehicle still wants to move with the clutch depressed. Sometimes it's the little things that get you!
Important things to note here...  
  • Every rebuild kit is not created equal, make sure you are getting all of the seals and bearings to do the job right the first time.
  • If you experience problems shifting smoothly from one gear to another while the drivetrain is in motion, the synchronizer rings may be worn out. These are not usually sold as a part of a rebuild kit. You may have to ask your distributor for them separately.
  • And last but not least, everyone is not mechanically inclined. So if you think you may need help with this, get help first. Nobody likes having to fish through a box of transmission parts from an unfinished job. 

 

Component Sources:

Petroworks Offroad Products
Orders - 1 (800) 952-8915
Tech - 1 (760) 731-9434

North Coast Offroad
Sales - 1 (866) 4X4PART
Tech - 1 (419) 732-0060

 

08/22/22 14:14:00

 

Disclaimer: The fabrication, modifications and designs you see on this web site are personal experience.  If you duplicate these modifications you do so at your own risk. These articles were written over many years of that hands-on experience. The companies offering these components may no longer have them on the market. Please use these articles to keep the hobby alive.

 

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